Understanding, Making, and Using Binding Tapes (Part 2)

Our partner blog Dalmatian DIY has been using binding in a number of recent dog-friendly DIY projects, so we thought we'd share some tips and resources here to help! Part 1 covered the types of bindings, material choices, and ways to make your own custom bindings. Part 2 looks at application methods, common problems, and tips/tricks.  Pet projects are great for practising and/or trying new techniques as they won't care if you make a few mistakes or things look a less than perfect! On the subject of less than perfect work, please excuse my quick cutting and sewing on these example pieces I created from my scrap fabric stash for this post. Experiments using leftover fabric are a great way to get comfortable with your machine settings, visualise stitches, and test drive new sewing techniques to see how things work (or don't). It's great learning but also so much better than figuring issues out after the fact on valuable materials or a project you've put your heart into preparing.

Facing vs. Binding. Before I start with binding, here's a quick look at using tape as a seam finish and facing, as discussed in Part 1. The tape is only visible on one side when attached, but gives a very tidy concealed seam finish. If using single fold tape as an inside facing, the tape is aligned right-side-in to the right side of the fabric then sewn along the fold line. If needed, the seam allowance can be trimmed. The attached tape is folded back on itself, so that it is racing right side up on the wrong side of the fabric with both folds tuck under. Iron flat (if materials allow). The tape can be sewn near the folded edge (double lines) or just at the free edge, depending on preferences. Remember that the reverse stitch lines will be visible on the front of the material. If using single fold tape as an outside trim, the process is the same, except that the application starts with the tape aligned right-side-in to the wrong side of the fabric. The example below shows both alongside a piece bound with the same tape for visual comparison.

For the scrap example pieces below, I've selected fabrics from my stash that have a right side and a wrong side and small patterns so that they don't distract from the obvious stitching. I've also used black (needle) and purple (bobbin) threads to make sure that the stitching (as ugly as some may be!) is easy to see on the examples. Although stitching in a complimentary contrasting colour can sometimes be a decorative element in itself, binding is often discretely applied with a matching thread. I've added an addition scrappy example at the end of the collages, sewn with pink (narrow top stitch on one side and feather on the other), so that you can see the same stitching "disappear" into the piece.

Application Methods. There are many different ways to sew on a binding, depending on the type of binding, material, and personal sewing preferences. There are so many variations! I'm  often tweaking methods or experimenting with something new. Simple projects like napkins, placemats, blankies, etc. are great places to try different techniques and/or refine sewing skills. Much less heartbreak if something isn't quite right than making an error on a lengthy quilting project or with fancy fabrics.

Two-Step Binding and Turning a Corner. Whether executed front-to-back or back-to-front, machine or hand-finished on the second stitching, two-step binding is the common application method. It gives a neat finish and has the benefit of the first fold being flapless thanks to the first stitch line underneath. It does, however, come with the risks of the binding failing to completely cover the first stitch line (peeking) and/or not fully catching the back of the binding on the second stitch line. We'll look closer at those in the common binding application issues later in this post.

• Unfold the end of the binding and position it at the starting point, right sides facing, so that one raw edge is aligned with the raw edge of the fabric.  
• Sew the binding into place along the first fold line, stopping near the unfolded binding's width from the corner. 
• Remove the item from the machine.
• Fold the tape upwards 90 degrees. Ensure it is in line with the next side (perpendicular to the current side). Iron to press a crease. Unfold. Alternatively, if the material can't be ironed or won't hold a crease, a pin can be used to mark the pivot and/or the fabric marked.
• Return the item to the machine (same position) and resume sewing. 
• At the fold crease, pause sewing. With the needle down, lift the foot and rotate the item towards the corner. Lower the foot and sew along the crease line all the way to the edge (corner).
• Remove the item from the machine. 
• Refold the tape upwards 90 degrees. Ensure it is in line with the next side (perpendicular to the current side), then make another fold downwards at the edge. Iron (or pin/pinch) and carefully return the item to the machine, positioned to sew the next edge starting from the very top of the folded binding.
• When you have full sewn the item (and joined ends, if applicable)
• Trim threads and turn the item over. Tip: If the materials allow, ironing (straight sections only) the binding before turning and wrapping can help to ensure that the first line fold lies well.  The corners will naturally mitre when the binding is turned and can be pinned or clipped to hold neatly folded. 
• Wrap the binding over the edge. Carefully topstitch (or other technique, if/as you prefer) the binding into place, taking extra care to ensure the corners are neatly folded on both sides. Tip: Pinning is normally enough on small items, but for for large projects or difficult fabrics, as I reach the corner, I like to remove my item from the machine, ensure the corner is folded as neatly as possible (checking both sides), reinsert the item on turned around the corner, and start sewing again

One-Step (Sandwich) Binding and Turning a Corner. When done carefully, this "cheat" application method looks visually almost identical to the two step method.  It can be quicker, but it's essential that things be carefully positioned to avoid mismatches or movement during application. Additionally, since the first fold line hasn't been sewn down before top stitching, it will have a small free flap, which can be minimised with narrow (or in the ditch) topstitching or using a centred fold for the binding instead of an offset fold.

• Fold binding and position it at the starting point, sandwiched over the edge so that the raw edge of the material is against the centre fold of the binding
• Sew the binding into place right to the edge. 
• Remove the item from the machine.
• Pull the binding open at the edge and manually manipulate the corner into a neat point, ensuring it is the same on both sides. 
• Refold around the next side, sandwiched over the edge so that the raw edge of the material is against the centre fold of the binding
• Optional: Iron (if materials allow), pin, and/or clip.
• Return the item to the machine on the preceding side and resume sewing so that the top stitched line appears uninterrupted, pausing needle down to turn the corner onto the new side. 

Common Binding Application Issues. When machine binding, two of the most common problems are not concealing the first step stitch line when the binding is turn and sewn in the second step (peeking),  or not catching the back of the binding when the front is sewn in the second step. I've had both happen on past projects, and it's super annoying having to unpick and do-over. Grizzle.

Most ready-made (and DIY, if you take the extra time) double-fold bindings do not have a perfectly centred fold. They are offset, with one side slightly longer than the other. If the longer side is sewn first, it is then easier to ensure that it is caught in on the second sewing. The difference is usually small, intended for stitching the top at (in the ditch) or very near the edge of the binding (narrow topstitch). This may not be suited to the project you are sewing. The relative position of the binding front/back needs to be right for both the application method and the thickness of the item being bound. In two-step application:

• If the binding can't reach to cover the reverse stitching from the first step, then it is impossible to hide that stitchline in the finished binding. 
• If it reaches, but the chosen method and position for sewing the edge down with the second stitch line is too far above first the stitch line, it will still be visible peeking from the edge of the finished binding. 
• If the second stitch line is too far below the first stitch line, it will fail to catch at the rear.
• A mix of good attachment, peeking, and/or failed catching may happen if the raw edges of the material(s) are uneven, if binding is unevenly folded, or if either the material(s) or binding are stretched during application.  It can also happen if the binding is unevenly attached in the first step (whether with an uneven stitch line or movement in the binding position relative to the edge), and/or the second second stitch line is uneven.

Using a bobbin thread that matches the fabric for the first stitch line can be handy for derisking visible peaking under the flap when topstitching, but it's better to try and avoid the problem unless using it purposefully. It is possible to deliberately use the mismatch to create an intentionally visible stitch line on the fabric (whether from the first or the second step) by using a consistent intentional gap and a thread colour that will either "disappear" into the finished project or act as a framing accent. The visible stitching can be distracting, but on heavily stitched items, like quilts, it can fade into the other decorative stitching on the quilted main fabric. Here is an example from Cluck Cluck Sew.

To avoid a mismatch, the binding needs to be just slightly larger on the first sewn side than the second, with (if necessary) an allowance for the edge thickness of the material(s) being bound. In the thick example piece below, the failed example shows an attachment without allowing for thickness and the successfully bound attachment shows the binding unfolded, re-ironed to allow for  wrapping the thick edge, double checked for coverage before sewing (better to check than to unpick!), and then sewn into place with the two-step process (back first) and a narrow topstitch finish.

To avoid peeking under the flap when topstitching, in most cases, position the second stitch line just barely above the first stitch line. Too far above, and it will be possible to see the reverse of the first stitches under the free flap. Too far below and it may not catch the rear. Thicker bindings may allow a little more room at the fold over the first stitch line.

A temporary marker can help with help ensure that the second stitch line catches the rear. One option, if pinholes won't damage the finished project, is to use a temporary basting line guide along the edge of the first fold. The basting stitches provide a visual marker that, if stitched above, will ensure the back is caught. This can be very helpful for positioning, especially if sewing right at the edge. When finished, pull the basting line out. Perfect!

Cheating on the application can also avoid the problem. Iron-on hemming tape (if materials allow), or washable/wash-out double-sided tape can be used to secure the first side of the binding so that there is no first stitch line at all leaving nothing to avoid. This can also be helpful if you want to reduce holes (such as water resistant materials) or combined with the sandwich technique to help with positioning instead of pins/clips. Tapes work best with single edges and/or combined with other techniques for corner areas.

Stitching. Commonly seen methods for finishing binding are simple straight-line stitching, either right on the edge (in the ditch) or as a slightly inset topstitch on the binding I tend to go for a narrow topstitch finish over stitching right in the edge (in the ditch), but there are many ways to finish a binding and it can be as discrete or as decorative as you wish. Sew Mama Sew gives a nice visual on a few on the most common tape finishing methods.

Decorative Stitching. Decorative stitching can be used as a design feature, but it can also be helpful with ensuring that edges are securely bound and reduce peeking/flaps. Some of the standard stitches on basic sewing machines (see our simple sewing machine stitch sampler here) do a nice job on decorative duty if your machine doesn't have fancy stitches. For a neat and tidy finish, they require care on positioning (and if turning corners), but the wider sew down can help with secure the front and catch the rear.

Finishing the Ends. If binding wraps all the way around the item, the ends need to be discretely joined at the meeting point. How do joining depends on whether I am trying to conceal a bias binding joint or a straight binding joint. For bias/diagonal, I will sew and trim the tails (see this great visual at So Sew Easy for an example of joining binding using this method). For straight binding, I like to cheat on the sleeve method and use a little bit of fusible web to "hem" my outer (visible) strip at the joint in a perfect line like the other straight joins in the binding. So simple, but so effective!

If binding finishes at an edge, its a little trickier. Trimming the ends, turning inward, and sewing into place (top line in the collage below) works, but it requires extra external stitch lines, creates added bulk at the ends, and leaves a open little crack if viewed straight on. The stitch lines and crack are not so bad, but often the added bulk and stiffness may be undesirable, especially when binding with thick fabrics. An alternative is to flip the binding right-side-in, sew the inverted end closed at a measured length, trim, and flip outwards to slip onto the edge like a fitted cap. This takes a little extra fussing with measurements but gives a neatly closed end with very little extra bulk inside the binding.

These example pieces all look pretty terrible with the intentionally visible threads (and my wonky fast sewing...) but if the same techniques are applied with care in a complimentary contrast colour they can really pop. In a complimentary colour, stitching fades into the finished piece and the fabric becomes the star of the show once more.